Wednesday, January 30, 2019

Jelajah Bulgaria - Sofia (Part II)



Sambungan tentang Bulgaria dari post sebelumnya...

[1] LANDMARK
Sekiranya anda seseorang suka bergamba di Landmark sesuati tempat yang anda kunjungi, boleh lah ke NDK. Ketika musim bunga, ia penuh dengan tulip dan water fountain yang menyejukkan pemandangan. Taman disekelilingnya juga menjadi tumpuan penduduk disini untuk beristirehat, tidak kurang juga yang datang berpiknik dan membaca buku sambil menikmati cahaya matahari.

[2] KESELAMATAN
Berkelana bersendirian di negara yang tidak dimonopoli oleh Muslim, bukan lah sesuatu yang senang. Berhati-hati adalah kunci, doa dan tawakkal jangan dilupa. Pernah mengenali warga Irish yang menetap di Bulgaria selama 10 tahun lamanya; kerana berkahwin dengan warga tempatan. Sebelum Bulgaria, beliau pernah menetap di Ireland, dan United Kingdom. Antara ketiga-tiga negara, Bulgaria dirasakan paling selamat dan tenang. Kehidupan yang tidak terlalu hectic, tidak terlalu berkejaran kesana sini; tidak seperti yang kita dapat lihat di USA, UK, dan Jepun. Mungkin kehidupan yang laid back dan relax, menjadikan beliau jatuh cinta. Pengalaman sendiri pula, setahun di Sofia...alhamdulillah, belum ditimpa apa-apa musibah.

Tapi perlu diingatkan, seperti di negara Europe yang lain, Bulgaria juga tidak pernah sunyi oleh pendatang yang datang berteduh mencari sesuap nasi; mereka adalah Gypsies. Mereka lah yang menyumbang kepada kes kecurian dan terkenal dgn aktiviti pick-pocketing. Antara hotspot pick-pocketing di Sofia adalah di Paradise Mall, antara Shopping Mall yang terbesar di Sofia dan juga sekitar Woman's Market (Zhenski Bazaar). Oleh itu, sebagai traveler, walau dimana kita berada, keselamatan adalah sesuatu yang harus dititik beratkan walaupon tempat yang dikunjungi statistik crime rate adalah rendah. Kita takkan pernah tau apa yang akan berlaku dan apa yang menanti kita di depan hari. Malang tidak pernah berbau. Oleh itu, always always and always be on your most sane state and stay focus.

3] CULTURE
Setahun mencari rezeki di bumi Sofia, cuba menelusuri rasa hati penduduk disini. From a year of observation, they are very expressive human being. I mean 'real honest'. When they are not happy they expressed them directly. If they're angry, they will spit them out on that very moment. Often I heard (from non-Bulgarian), when they had a conversation they look like arguing infact they are just talking normally to each other.

Having born in a total opposite culture, it indeed a little hard for me to fit into the equation. Tapi alah bisa tegal biasa. ASIAN normally are laid back type of person. Don't quote me wrong, not all ASIAN are as what I described myself, there is outspoken one but not that many. Hence my curiosity makes me ended up asking them, incase there are reason behind. So I roughly got my answer, (it might be right, or it might not). Those days that they had. Kesusahkan yang dialami sedikit sebanyak memberi impak kepada kedhidupan mereka hari ini. In case some of you wondering how the communism rules feels like; communism is a system in which there are not supposed to be any economic or social classes, all property is owned by the community, and all people enjoy the same social and economic status. Building/houses is build, as minimal as it can be just to fit the actual purpose. Nothing fancy. No one had more than what others had. I was told that during that time, if you went to other people house you couldn't really recognized if it is your house or not. Everything looks exactly the same. Everyone had the same and no one had more than others. Thus, can you imagine yourself living under these rules?

Often than not, from their facial expression, they look a little fierce. At one glance, they looks like middle eastern people. But if you know them, they were nice people. Try to speak their language even a simple words, they appreciate them a lot. It shows they really respect when you show interest in what they used even the small as ‘Hi’ and ‘Thanks’. You can earn their respect from them. Oh, by the way, you can use 'Merci' instead of 'Thanks' here.

But their language are not the easiest to learn obviously. A year had passed, and I am here still struggling. The reading part was easy, understanding part is the hellish one here :) Still, I am trying. πŸ’ͺ

Another unique things about them, Bulgarians express approval by shaking their heads rather than nodding. So, don't get confused.

[4] CUACA: Seperti negara Eropah berdekatan, Bulgaria di anugerahkan empat musim. Sebelum berhijrah ke sini, saya di beritahu Bulgaria mempunyai cuaca yang extreme. Where it gets real cold during winter, and extremely hot during summer. Cuaca musim sejuk penah mencecah -17 pada tahun lepas. Dan -20 pada tahun sebelumnya. Bayangkanlah air conditioning yg 20 tu pon dah sejuk.. Apatah lagi yang -20. Sejuk tak sejuk, make sure to gear up properly kalau nk datang musim sejuk. Musim panas mampu mencecah hingga 40. Tapi alhamdulillah walaupun panas, masih tetap ada hembusan angin. Tak humid macam kat MY. Bulan puasa adalah antara bulan yang mempunyai hari yang panjang. Subuh pada pukul 4:30pagi dan Magrib sekitar 8:30mlm-9:00mlm. Di penghujung bulan puasa, subuh menganjak ke 3:30pagi dan Maghrib 9:00mlm. Melepet jugak la nk menghabiskan puasa sebulan πŸ˜‚. Semoga tahun ni lebih tabah.

[5] GETTING IN
There is no direct flight from KL-SOF. As an alternative, fly with Qatar Airline and transit at Doha. The cheapest I’ve got so far RM2600, tu pon dalam bulan puasa last year. Tahun ni tak jumpa lagi that kind of fares. Sobs.
[KUL-DOHA 8 jam] - [DOHA-SOFIA 5 jam]

Another economical option is to take return ticket KUL to Istanbul and then from Istanbul you may roam the Balkan countries with bus or train. Also, there is direct flight from London to Sofia which took around 2.5hours. You may take Wizz Air, a Hungarian Low cost airline. Sometimes the price is pretty decent for return ticket, apprx RM500.

Hopefully, the info could literally help travelers who will visit Bulgaria soon.

Jelajah Bulgaria - Sofia (Part I)

Bulgaria, antara negara Balkan yang masih belum terusik. Bersempadan dengan Turki, Romania, Greece, Macedonia, dan Serbia. Pernah dijajah oleh Empayar Uthmaniah selama 500 tahun dan juga Soviet Union. Selain peninggalan Empayar Uthmaniah, mereka juga kaya dengan Peninggalan Ancient Roman.



[1] Bahasa and Abjad
Mengunakan bahasa Bulgaria sebagai bahasa pengantaraan. Tidak menggunakan huruf Latin, tetapi menggunakan Cyrillic. Segelintir fasih berbahasa Inggeris, mostly professional.

[2] Agama
Didominasi oleh Kristian, rata-rata rakyatnya adalah penganut Bulgarian Ortodoks. Hanya 10% beragama Islam. Islam pernah tersebar di Bulgaria ketika ditakluki Empayar Uthmaniah. Walaupun pernah dijajah kuasa besar Islam selama 5 abad lamanya, Islam masih kekal signifikan sebagai agama minoriti. Setelah kuasa Uthmaniah berundur diri, dan setelah beberapa sekuel peperangan, Bulgaria ditawan pula oleh kuasa Soviet Union, dan dari situlah kerajaan komunis mula berkuasa. Kesan daripada penaklukan Komunis, Bulgarian menderita dek kerana isu kebebasan beragama. Seperti yang kita sedia maklum, Komunism cuba membasmi agama dari kehidupan seharian masyarakat. Impak dari Komunism masih boleh dilihat hingga ke hari ini. Menurut rakan-rakan, kebanyakan dari mereka hanyalah beragama pada nama. Tidak dipraktikkan dalam kehidupan seharian.
Masih banyak peninggalan Empayar Uthmaniah di sekitar Sofia. Menurut penduduk disini, dahulunya ada berpuluh-puluh buah masjid. Namun yg tinggal dan masih beroperasi hanyalah Masjid Banya Bashi, yang terletak di tengah-tengah kota Sofia. Alhamdulillah, masih bergema suara azan disini pada setiap waktu. Pada mulanya, banyak nasihat yg diberikan pada saya supaya lebih berhati-hati. Lima abad dibawah pemerintahan Uthmaniah masih lagi segar dalam ingatan setiap dari mereka. Kenangan pahit pastinya sukar untuk dilupakan, luka tetap ada. Jadi saya agak berhati-hati pada awalnya, risau pandangan mereka terhadap wanita berhijab atau lebih kepada Islamophobia. Hingga ke hari ini, masih lagi ada pandangan yang sedikit pelik dek hijab yang dikenakan. Tapi alah bisa tegal biasa, Allah permudahkan segalanya πŸ™‚

[3] ATTRACTIONS
Selama setahun menetap disini, masih banyak tempat menarik yang belum sempat di kunjungi. Antara yang bleh dilawati sekitar Sofia adalah:
►►Palace of Justice
►►Sveta Nedelya Church
►►Coat of Arms of Sofia
►►Statue of Sofia
►►Church of St. Petka
►►Largo Square ruins
►►Banya Bashi Mosque
►►Sofia Synagogue
►►Bath / Museum of Sofia
►►Mineral waters
►►Council of Ministers
►►Former Communist Party Headquarters 
►►Presidency
►►Rotunda of St George
►►City Garden
►►National Theater Ivan Vazov
►►National Gallery (Formal Royal Palace)
►►Russian Church and Military Club
►►St. Sophia Basilica
►►St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral
►►National Palace of Culture (NDK)












Seperti negara Europe yang lain, di sini juga ada Free Walking Tour yang diorganize oleh NGO. It is a Walking Tour which runs 365 days a year no matter the weather conditions (incl weekends, national holidays, Christmas, Easter etc). [April-October: 10 AM, 11 AM & 6 PM], [November-March: 11 AM & 6 PM]. Mereka akan bawa to most of the tourist attaction stated above (except NDK) dan bercerita tentang sejarah Bulgaria. The starting point is near Serdika metro station. For more details boleh visit this website https://freesofiatour.com/free-sofia-tour/
Sekiranya anda suka bergambar di LANDMARK sesuatu tempat yang anda kunjungi, boleh lah ke NDK, Landmark "SOFIA" boleh didapati di situ. Ketika musim bunga, ia penuh dengan tulip dan water fountain yang menyejukkan mata sesiapa yang memandang. Taman disekelilingnya juga menjadi tumpuan penduduk disini untuk beristirehat, tidak kurang juga yang datang berpiknik dan membaca buku sambil menikmati cahaya matahari.
Dan kalau ada lebih masa, boleh la melawat few other cities such as Plovdiv, Veliko Ternovo, Koprivshtitsa. All of them have stories to tell. And if you happened to be in Bulgaria during the first week of June, Kazanlak Rose Valley-the center of rose oil extraction in Bulgaria is a place to go. There will be a Rose Festival there.
To those who loves winter sport, this land is a right place for you. Bulgaria is famous with skii resorts(Vitosha/Bansko). The most nearest to Sofia is Vitosha mountain, 15 minutes from the city center. If you're somewhere in Sofia, provided the weather is bright and sunny, you will clearly see the mountains. It is visible from everywhere. I think that is one the reason why their government control the building development so that it does not reach certain height to avoid them covering the natural beauty of the city. The mountain; backbone of the city, one of their pride. But no kidding, it was beautiful especially when they are wearing snowcap. I saw them from my office's window everyday, still never feel tired looking at them. If you're from Sofia, you can take the bus or taxi, and then took the lift (Cable car) to the top. The 2 way tickets for the lift costs 15Leva (RM38).



[4] PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
Sekiranya menggunakan Public transport (Metro), announcement boleh didapati dalam dwi bahasa (Bulgaria dan English), dan bas hanya sesetengah sahaja yang mempunyai dwi-bahasa. Pertama kali menjejakkan kaki disini, tiada bangunan mencakar langit seperti KL Tower. Landskap dari atas awan, rata-rata kelihatan seperti kotak-kotak segi empat tepat. Bangunan bersegi-empat peninggalan komunis masih lagi berdiri teguh. Tiada yang gah seperti yang dapat dilihat di Malaysia. Lapangan terbang Sofia saiz nya seperti Lapangan terbang di Kota Bharu. Tidak sibuk seperti KLIA, Malaysian yang datang ke Bulgaria tidak memerlukan VISA. Buku merah sudah mencukupi.
Mempunyai 2 Lapangan Terbang; terletak berdekatan dgn Sofia City Centre, Terminal 2 adalah Lapangan Terbang yang terbaru, dan Terminal 1 adalah yang pertama dibina. Low-cost carrier seperti Wizz Air dan Ryan Air mendarat di Terminal 1, yang lainnya di Lapangan Terbang Terminal 2. Shuttle bus beroperasi antara Terminal 1 dan Terminal 2 (FOC).
Terminal 2 mempunyai direct metro akses ke 'Sofia City centre'. Harga ticket dari Terminal 2 ke City Centre hanyalah 1.60 Leva bersamaan dengan RM4 per trip. Aliran metro LINE2 adalah terus dari Airport ke ‘Sofia City Centre’ (Serdika Metro Station). Tak perlu bayar mahal-mahal seperti KLIA Ekspres. πŸ˜Hanya 30 minit perjalan.

Untuk yang tidak mempunyai Sofia PASS, ticket bas boleh dibeli dari bas driver dengan harga 1.60 Leva per trip. Pastikan anda sahkan ticket anda dengan menggunakan alat yg berwarna kuning yg diletakkan di dinding bas. Manakalah tiket train boleh di beli di counter.
Sila install applikasi MOOVIT untuk memudahkan perjalan anda. Ia bisa memaparkan segala yang berkaitan dengan public transport berserta dengan timetable untuk trip anda; seperti 'trip planner'.
Sofia Pass Card: 20 Leva untuk Sofia Card, boleh digunakan selama 3 hari untuk semua jenis public transport (bus, trolley, tram, metro). Boleh di beli di Serdika Metro Station.
[5] SOUVENIRS
Bulgaria is famous with Bulgarian rose, it costs much more expensive than gold. They produced a lot of cosmetic products from roses. You may opt to buy perfume, lotion, soap, essential oils and many more. There are 2 big player which produced Rose goods; one is Bulgarian Rose Karlovo (https://goo.gl/maps/KoHcs1ZX7sB2), and another one is Rose Bulgaria (https://goo.gl/maps/m2X8VwU9QLH2). That is their official Store location in Sofia. Tips: Try not to buy Roses product in Souvenirs shop, instead buy them at their Official Store. The price in the souvenirs shop is slightly higher compared to the Official Store. Oh, they also had Lavender product besides of roses. Thus you had more options. For other souvenirs (like Tshirts, Fridge magnets, Kitchen Towels, Keychain) you can always find something in Serdika Station as they had many stores there. Also in Central Hall (Tsentrali Hali) which is just opposite Banya Bashi mosque. And many more along Vitosha Boulevard, shopping Street in Sofia. You could take a walk along this street which will bring you to NDK (National Palace of Culture). A place which normally European Union meeting being held.

They also had massive honey production, so you can opt to buy honey here. And normally it will cost you just 10Leva per jar. (Size of 500grams). I don't think you can find artificial honey here (I mean fake 'honey' like what we always had in stores in MY) πŸ™‚
If you love to collect some Traditional pottery, they had it too. They called them "Gyuvech". Google them if you want to see how it looks like.


[6] PLACE TO EAT: Mengikut Rule of Thumb, makanan halal selalunya terletak di sekitar masjid. This rule never go wrong. There are few Halal Restaurants around Sofia but not that much that I know of. One located at the corner of Banya Bashi mosque, Olive restaurant (https://goo.gl/maps/MwAFeUjtt482). Another one is Miral Food (https://goo.gl/maps/3hjAqFbGdE22).
1 meal normally costs around 10Leva = RM25. If you prefer to cook, you may found halal butcher along Tsar Simeon; which is known as Turkish neighbourhood. You might also want to try the Bulgarian yogurt, Bulgarian pride. The bacteria used for its production can only be found on the territory of the country, even the Japanese imports from them. That makes me thing, probably the yogurt that we had all this while are from Bulgaria. Aren't they?
[7] CURRENCY: They used Bulgarian Leva. I don't think they accept Euro as CASH (Am not too sure..). Credit and debit card are widely used. I never saw any Money Changer in Malaysia selling BGN currency, so please change to Euro first. There is money changer at the airport, there is one at Serdika Station, Vitosha Boulevard, and one just next to Olive restaurant. Also at the Bus station. (I only mentioned those near tourist attractions.)
[8] CONNECTION TO NEIGHBORING COUNTRY: Other than flight, you may opt for bus or train. Bus is cheaper and faster compared to train which takes longer.
►Bus Sofia to Bucharest, Romania (7 hours) - FLIXBUS, (10 Euro)
►Bus Sofia to Skopje (16 Euro - 5 hours)
►Bus Sofia to Istanbul (25 Euro - 9 hours)
Bus station is accessible by Metro Line 2, stop at Central Railway Station. The "Central Railway Station" is the metro stop for both train and bus station.
[9] GETTING IN
There is no direct flight from KL-SOF. As an alternative, fly with Qatar Airline and transit at Doha. The cheapest I’ve got so far RM2600, tu pon dalam bulan puasa last year. Tahun ni tak jumpa lagi that kind of fares. Sobs.
[KUL-DOHA 8 jam] - [DOHA-SOFIA 5 jam]
Another economical option is to take return ticket KUL to Istanbul and then from Istanbul you may roam the Balkan countries with bus or train. Also, there is direct flight from London to Sofia which took around 2.5hours. You may take Wizz Air, a Hungarian Low cost airline. Sometimes the price is pretty decent for return ticket, apprx RM500.
[10] DRIVING
The easiest way to move around Bulgaria is driving. Driver is on the left-side. The opposite compared to what we had in Malaysia.
[11] TRADITIONAL COSTUME
Sebagai kenang-kenangan, pelancong boleh juga mengambil gambar dalam kostum traditional mereka. They had something like photo studio which provide Bulgarian Traditional Costume which you can changed into before getting your photo captured.
[12] BALKAN's HIGHEST PEAK
For those who love hiking, Rila is the highest mountain in the Balkans. The summit, Musala rising to 2925m. Best to visit during summer else you will be freezing before reaching the top. Also the famous 7 Rila Lakes which you wouldn't want to miss.

Friday, January 11, 2019

Obligations

Today marks 365 days I lived in Sofia. 
A year ago, I had so much worry about one and only things. "SOLAT" 

Dkt mana nak solat, dkt mana nak ambil air sembahyang. Soalan tu je yang bermain-main dikepala. Tapi Alhamdullillah, berkat doa Allah permudahkan segalanya. 


They provide a meeting room for prayer. Like multi purpose room; It can be a praying room, also a meeting room at the same time. They tinted the glass just to make sure that I don't draw anyone attention; it was transparent originally. Some of them don't even aware that Muslims need to pray 5 times a day. They will be wondering if they saw someone doing something out of the norm. Some of them have Muslims friend but they do not practice them as their way of life. That is how it was here.

They asked me to book the room for a year during specific time just to ensure that I had what I need. Memang syukur sangat, Allah permudahkan. They even passed me the key so that I can lock myself in the room during prayer. Very considerate people I would say.


Before they did that, they even make a research and ask about how am I going to take ablution. And I told them that should be okay, I just need a place and nothing else, and that is enough for me. My boss told me, our company is probably the first company doing such thing in Bulgaria. All in all, I am thankful for everything.





Today I passed by Banya Bashi mosque during Friday prayer. Obviously, it wasn’t my first time here but it was my first time passing this places during Friday prayer. Am just curious to see how’s the crowd during Friday Prayer as Muslims are hardly noticeable here. Since today I opt-ed to work from home, I head to the center during lunch break hoping to see something (because this is something which is not common, if you understand what I mean). Religion in Bulgaria has been dominated by Christianity, mostly Bulgarian Orthodox. And Muslims is just 12% of the population. Eventhough they had been conquered by Ottoman Empire for 500 years, it does not stay. After Ottoman, they are few sequel of wars, and at the end, they were invaded by Soviet Union, and a communist government was put into power. As a result, Bulgarian suffered under the restriction of religious freedom during the communism in which Communism tried to eradicate religion from the daily life of society in the past. The impact is what we can see today, as I was told by my Bulgarian friend that they were not religious at all, be it Christian or Muslim. For them, religion is just something they were born with. I also was told that Bulgarians often don’t have time for religion, they have other more important things to deal with. Still, I am at least happy to witness such moments. It literally means they are still Muslim who takes religion and makes them as their way of life and not just passed by blood-lines. .
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There are still people who believe in God, eventhough there are also many who is not.
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It’s not easy to live in a place which Islam is not common to them. We don’t even have praying room in the office. Men don’t even have luxury having rest time from 12pm to 3pm on Friday. Yet, they managed to do their part. Those who has everything in place, what is your reason skipping them? Jangan kufur nikmat Tuhan.
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#sofiabulgaria 

#bulgaria


Hujung minggu di Sofia, Bulgaria.

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